Let’s start with the pattern construction of the skirt Calais! The sewing project of the month, the skirt Calais, is quite easy to construct and therefore also suitable for advanced beginners. For the pattern construction you need a perfectly fitting basic skirt sloper. How you can tailor the basic skirt block perfectly to you, I have described you here in Part 1 and Part 2 of the possible skirt pattern adjustments. You also need the materials for the pattern construction that I have listed for you here. First you copy your basic skirt pattern so that your basic pattern is always preserved and is available unchanged for further pattern designs.
In the first step you draw the desired length on your basic skirt pattern. For my skirt I decided on a midi length of 65 cm, so I drew a line 5 cm below the hem and lengthened the other lines accordingly. For my skirt I have chosen a waistband width of 6 cm. It’s best to measure yourself in front of the mirror to see which waistband width you like best. You draw your waistband width in your basic cut parallel to the upper edge. I extended the back dart to the length of the front dart so that the width is the same when the pattern is spread later. Then draw a straight line on the front and back from the dart point to the hem. Now cut the basic skirt pattern along these lines.
Now close the darts on the cut parts of the waistband. Then you correct the upper and lower rounding so that the waistband has a nice, slightly rounded line.
Then close the darts in the front and back. This automatically opens the hem to the A-line. So that the curve of the hem is not too strong, add a length of 1.5 cm at the sides.
Then add 10 cm for the overlap at the center front of the front waistband and the front skirt part. Draw and copy the pocket pouch for the seam pockets in the front part. Mark the pocket opening on the front and back of the skirt. My pocket opening starts 12 cm below the waist and has a length of 14 cm.
These are all the pattern pieces you need for your skirt Calais. Cut the fabric ties according to your liking. Since I decided to have my skirt tied at the front, I cut 2 ties with a length of 150 cm and a finished width of 6 cm. If you want to close your skirt sideways, the left tie must be longer than the right one. If you have any questions, please write them in the comments. The next Sunday the sewing instructions will continue. I wish you a lot of fun constructing your own pattern!