Let’s start with the pattern construction of the skirt Bouton! The sewing project of the month, the skirt Bouton, is moderately difficult to construct and therefore more suitable for advanced hobby sewists. For the pattern construction you need a perfectly fitting basic skirt sloper. How you can tailor the basic skirt block perfectly to you, I have described you here in Part 1 and Part 2 of the possible skirt pattern adjustments. You also need the materials for the pattern construction that I have listed for you here. First you copy your basic skirt pattern so that your basic pattern is always preserved and is available unchanged for further pattern designs.

In the first step you draw the desired length on your basic skirt pattern. For my skirt I decided on a midi length of 70 cm, so I drew a line 10 cm below the hem and lengthened the other lines accordingly. My skirt has 2 pleats at the front and back that arise from the darts. You can adjust the amount and position of the pleats according to your own preferences. The first pleat is at 1/3 hip width and the second pleat is 6 cm next to it. In the front part I move the dart towards the center front so that it is 8 cm (1/3 hip width) next to it. Since the front dart is quite narrow, I add 1 cm width to the side seam for the second pleat. I draw the second dart at the front 6 cm next to the first pleat with a width of 1 cm. The back dart is already in the right place on the back, but I narrow it to 1.5 cm. The remaining 1.5 cm form the 2nd dart, which is 6 cm next to it.

For the high waist, I have chosen a height of 6 cm. The best thing to do is to measure in front of the mirror what height you like. To draw the high waist, mirror the line of the side seam and darts upwards. Then draw the new high waist 6 cm above the current waist line.

 Mark the button placket in the center front. The rule for this is that you add 1x the button width. My button is 2 cm wide, so I draw the button placket 2 cm from the center front. Then cut the skirt parts apart at the change lines.

Then slide the front and back parts of the skirt apart so that 8 cm is added at the hem between the parts. Glue on the pattern pieces accordingly and make sure that all parts are glued on straight.

Then widen the front and back pieces of the skirt 2 cm at the side seam. In addition, I adjusted the side seam a little in the back skirt, as the angle was very steep for me. Draw and copy the pocket bag for the inseam pockets in the front piece. Mark the pocket opening on the front and back of the skirt. My pocket opening starts 12 cm below the high waist and has a length of 14 cm.

These are all the pattern pieces you need for your skirt Merris. If you have any questions, please write them in the comments. The next Sunday the sewing instructions will continue. I wish you a lot of fun constructing your own pattern!

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