Welcome to the 2nd part of the pattern adjustments for your basic skirt block! Originally, I wanted to put everything in one blog post, but after 2,000+ words and many large pictures, I decided to split it up into 2 posts. The first part was about the measuring lines for your basic skirt block, the adjustments if you are between 2 sizes and how you can lengthen or shorten the pattern. The second part today is all about the adjustments for a pronounced/flat stomach and a pronounced/flat behind.

 

Your skirt does not sit flat in the front or is shorter/longer in the front

If your skirt does not fit properly in the front or is different in length from the rest of the skirt, then this is due to a pronounced or very flat stomach. The best way to determine this difference in length is to have someone else measure you. First, mark your waist with a tape measure with hooks and holes or a knotted elastic band. Then measure the length to the floor in the center front and on the side, like pictured above. You subtract 1 cm from the side length, as this is added in the construction so that the waistband looks straight. Then compare the side length with the measurement of the front center.

Skirt pattern adjustment for a pronounced belly:

A pronounced belly is usually noticeable when the skirt stretches over the belly and/or is shorter at the front than the side seam. If your skirt is only slightly stretched over your stomach, you can compensate for the lack of width by shortening the darts. With a pronounced belly, the side length is longer than the front center and you have to add the corresponding length in the front part. You have to pull apart the pattern at the front by the difference between the front and side length. To do this, draw a horizontal line at a right angle about 10 cm below the waist in the center front. In addition, you draw a vertical line between the dart and the center front. Then you cut the horizontal line from the center front to just before the side seam. You cut the vertical line from the waist to just before the horizontal line. Now you move the upper part up on the horizontal line by your difference. This shift automatically creates a new dart. Glue your pattern pieces in place, making sure that your center front is still straight. If the newly created dart only has a small content of 1-1.5 cm, remove this width from the side seam and do not sew the dart. If your dart has more content, I recommend sewing it. However, the second dart should be 2-3 cm shorter than the first dart. To draw in the new dart, it is best to draw an auxiliary line horizontally at a right angle from the tip of the dart of the first dart. From this line you now go 2-3 cm upwards and connect the new end point with the dart width. Then you should correct the side seam.

 

Skirt pattern adjustment for a flat stomach:

With a very flat stomach, on the other hand, there is fullness over the stomach and/or the skirt is longer at the front. If you only have a little excess in the stomach area, you can remove this by extending the darts. With a very flat stomach, the side length is shorter than the front center and you have to remove the corresponding length and width in the front part. You have to overlap the pattern at the front by the difference between the front and side length. To do this, draw a horizontal line at a right angle that runs through your dart end point. Then you cut the horizontal line from the center front to just before the side seam. In addition, you cut the dart in the middle from above to just before the horizontal line. Now you move the upper part at the front center down by your difference. This shift automatically makes your dart a little narrower. Glue your pattern pieces in place, making sure that your center front is still straight. Then, if necessary, you should correct the side seam.

 

Your skirt doesn’t sit flat at the back or is shorter/longer at the back

If your skirt doesn’t fit properly at the back or is different in length from the rest of the skirt, it is due to a pronounced or flat bottom. The best way to determine this difference in length is to have someone else measure you. First, mark your waist with a tape measure with hooks and holes or a knotted elastic band. Then measure the length to the floor at the center back and on the side. You subtract 1 cm from the side length, as this is added in the construction so that the waistband looks straight. Then compare the length of the side with the measurement of the center back.

Skirt pattern adjustment for a pronounced bottom: 

A pronounced bottom is usually noticeable when the skirt is stretched over the bottom and/or is shorter than the side seam at the back. If your skirt is only slightly stretched over your bottom, you can compensate for the lack of width by shortening the darts. If you have a pronounced bottom, the side length is longer than the center back and you have to add the corresponding length in the back. You have to pull the pattern apart at the back by the difference between the back and side length. To do this, draw a horizontal line at a right angle about 15 cm below the waist at the center back. In addition, you draw a vertical line between the darts and the side seam. Then you cut the horizontal line from the center back to just before the side seam. You cut the vertical line from the waist to just before the horizontal line. Now you move the upper part up on the horizontal line by your difference. This shift automatically creates a new dart. Glue your pattern pieces in place, making sure your center back is still straight. The second dart should, however, be 1-2 cm shorter than the first dart. To draw in the new dart, it is best to draw an auxiliary line horizontally at a right angle from the tip of the dart of the first dart. From this line you now go 1-2 cm upwards and connect the new end point with the dart width. Then you should correct the side seam.

 

Skirt pattern adjustment for a flat bottom:

If you have a flat bottom, however, there is fullness over the bottom and/or the skirt is longer at the back. If you only have a little extra width on your bottom, you can remove this by extending the darts. With a very flat butt, the side length is shorter than the center back and you have to remove the corresponding length and width in the back. You have to overlap the pattern at the back by the difference between the back and side length. To do this, draw a horizontal line at a right angle that runs through your dart end point. Then you cut the horizontal line from the center back to just before the side seam. In addition, you cut the dart in the middle from above to just before the horizontal line. Now you push the upper part down at the center back by your difference. This shift automatically makes your dart a little narrower. Glue your pattern pieces in place, making sure your center back is still straight. Then, if necessary, you should correct the side seam.

 

I hope these adjustments help you along the way to the perfect basic skirt block. If you have any questions or I forgot an adjustment, please write it in the comments.