Dear readers, let’s start with the first pattern construction! The sewing project of the month, the Skirt Fleury, is rather easy to construct and therefore also suitable for advanced beginners. For the pattern construction you need a perfectly fitting basic pattern. How you can tailor the basic sloper perfectly to you, I have described you here in Part 1 of the pattern adjustments. Part 2 of the pattern adjustments will follow next Thursday. You also need the materials for the pattern construction that I have listed for you here. First you copy your basic skirt pattern so that your basic pattern is always preserved and is available unchanged for further pattern designs.
For my skirt, I decided on a waistband width of 6 cm. It’s best to measure yourself in front of the mirror to see which waistband width you like best. You draw your waistband width in your basic pattern parallel to the upper edge. Now cut apart the basic skirt pattern along this line. For the rest of the pattern, you only need the upper part, you can put the lower part aside.
Now close the darts on the waistband pieces. Then you correct the upper and lower edge so that the waistband has a nice, slightly rounded line. To construct the ruffles, measure the lower edge of your waistband. The first ruffle only has a seam for the zipper on the back. Therefore, you have to leave an opening of approx. 12 cm at the back seam. The width for the first frill is calculated as follows:
- (Lower front edge + lower rear edge) x 2 = total circumference
- (Total circumference x 1.5 gathering width) + 3 cm seam allowance = ruffle width
Here again to better understand what the calculation looks like in my case:
- (22 cm + 21.5 cm) x 2 = 87 cm
- (87 x 1.5) + 3 = 133.5 cm
You can choose the ruffle length as you like. I chose a length of 30 cm for the first frill. I added a total of 3 cm seam allowance to this length = 1.5 cm each on the upper and lower edge. So, for the first ruffle I cut a strip of fabric that was 133.5 cm wide and 33 cm long.
For the second frill you need the width of the first frill x 1.5 gathering width. The second ruffle will likely be significantly wider than your fabric. Therefore, the second ruffle is cut into 2 strips. In contrast to the first, the second ruffle has side seams and no seam at the back. The width of the individual strips is calculated as follows:
- (Frill width 1st frill x 1.5 gathering width) / 2 = ½ frill width 2nd frill
- ½ frill width 2nd frill + 3 cm seam allowance = ½ frill width 2nd frill incl. seam allowance (cut 2x)
Here again my calculation for a better understanding:
- (133.5 cm x 1.5) / 2 = 100 cm
- 100 cm + 3 cm = 103 cm (cut 2x)
Of course, you can also choose the frill length for the second frill as you like. I chose a length of 15 cm for the second frill. I added a total of 5.5 cm seam allowance to this length = 1.5 cm at the top and 4 cm at the hem. For the second ruffle, I cut two strips of fabric 103 cm wide and 20.5 cm long.
If you want to line the skirt, you have to cut a frill piece made of lining material the width of your first frill. The length has to be longer, of course, so that the entire skirt is lined. Since the lining should be about 2-3 cm shorter than the rest of the skirt, my lining has a length of 46.5 cm including 1.5 cm seam allowance on the upper edge and 2 cm seam allowance on the lining hem.
These are all the pattern pieces you need for your Skirt Fleury. If you have any questions, please write them in the comments. The next Sunday the sewing instructions will continue. I wish you a lot of fun constructing your own pattern!