Dear readers, I hope you have your pattern pieces ready, because today we continue with the sewing instructions for the skirt Fleury. I tried to illustrate the instructions as best I could. For more complicated steps, like sewing in a invisible zipper, I will soon be writing more detailed instructions with photos for each individual step. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask them in the comments.

For the skirt you will need about 1 m of fabric with a width of 1.4 – 1.5 m. It is best to cut the fabric as shown above. The front and back pieces of the waistband are interfaced with thin Vlieseline.

Lay the front and back waistband pieces right sides together. Close the side seams on the inner and outer waistband. Iron the seam allowance apart.

Sew the back seam together at the top ruffle, leave the zipper opening open. Leave an opening of 15.5 cm for the zipper with a zipper length of 20 cm. Reinforce the zip opening with narrow Vlieseline strips within the seam allowance. Overcast the seam allowances individually and iron the seam apart. Sew the 2 gathering seams along the top edge and gather them to the length of the waistband. Knot the ends of the two gathering seams. 

Sew the top ruffle to the outer waistband. Neaten the seam allowances together and iron them up.

Sewing the Zipper:

In the center back, mark the seam line at the zip opening with colored thread. Sew in the seam-fine zipper as follows: Close the zipper completely, fold over the allowances on the upper edge and mark with cross needles. Measure the required length and mark it with cross needles. Open the zipper and pin it at the top and bottom markings on the skirt. Sew with large stitches and the normal presser foot to the outer edge of the zipper so that the zipper meets the colored marking. Then sew the zipper as close as possible along the teeth with the help of a special foot for seam-fine zippers.

Close the side seams of the lower frill. Neaten the seam allowances together and iron them up. Iron the hem 3 cm upwards and fold in to 1.5 cm. Stitch tightly on the right side.

Sew the 2 gathering seams along the top edge and gather them to the length of the top frill. Knot the ends of the two gathering seams. Sew the bottom frill to the top frill. Neaten the seam allowances together and iron them up.

Sewing the Lining:

Sew together the back seam on the lining, leave the zip opening open. Leave an opening of 17 cm for the zipper with a zipper length of 20 cm. Iron the lining hem 3 cm upwards and fold it in to 1.5 cm. Stitch tightly on the right side. Sew the 2 gathering seams along the top edge of the lining and gather them to the size of the inner waistband. Knot the ends of the two gathering seams. Sew the lining to the inner waistband. Neaten the seam allowances together and iron them up.

Turn the inner waistband over with the outer waistband along the top edge. Iron the seam allowances on the upper edge into the inner waistband and stitch in place close to the edge.

Fold the waistband inwards and fix it to the skirt by stitching in the ditch of the waistband attachment seam.

Fold the edges of the inner waistband / lining on the zipper and sew on by hand.

And your skirt Fleury is ready! I wish you good sewing success 🙂